WRO, l’Affaire Ojai, February, 2008

Adam Tolmach owns Ojai Winery, in California’s south Central Coast. He’s been making wine for more than 30 years, with significant stints at Zaca Mesa and a brief but important period as a partner with Au Bon Climat’s Jim Clendenen. He’s not new to the game, in short. He’s been around to see more than his share of innovations and trends, and evidently has given in to a few as well. Continue reading

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WRO, Wine as a Muse, July, 2008

I recently attended lunch at Lucques with Christian Moueix, one of the world’s best known winemakers, proprietor of legendary Bordeaux properties (most on the Right Bank) including the great Pomerols Chateau Trotanoy and Chateau Petrus, as well as Dominus, the fine Napa Valley estate.

The Right Bank is the ancestral home to merlot, a variety which gets a tremendous amount of abuse heaped upon it, some of it (outside of the Right Bank anyway) deserved. Moueix, though, is one of the certified masters of merlot; he stewards the world’s most fabled merlot property, Chateau Petrus, for one thing, but in his many other properties, merlot is the centerpiece and his principle medium for expression. So before you write off merlot forever, taste one of Moueix’s wines and remind yourself just how extraordinary the variety can be. In an era when most wines are meant to bonk you over the head with their power (and alcohol), the Moueix wines epitomize elegance, balance, and restraint. Continue reading

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2006 LA Dining Article for W&S

An article I wrote on the LA Dining scene (with wine) for Wine & Spirits.   LA restaurants W&S

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Hello world!

Hi all. This is my brand spanking new website, which will be filled with links to some articles, recent publications, status reports on my book project on the American Rhone Wine Movement, and (god help me) an occasional blog post as needed. Bear with me as I get used to talking about and writing about myself.


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